The 9th: Grands Boulevards, SoPi

Bustling, elegant, theatrical

Place Gustav Toudouze

Let’s riddle our way through this fascinating ninth arrondissement with nine riddles. To which place does each refer?

A street to die for. A hint of Hellenism. A triangular square. A hidden fountain. Holy be the Trinity. Long live La Fayette. Folies, folies everywhere. Looking down on Napoleon. A romantic life they lived.

1. A street to die for

A la Renaissance

Despite the name, this is a lively and historic street that stretches from the 9th to the 18th arrondissement of Paris, connecting Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to Montmartre. Named in honor of Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris who was martyred nearby, the street has deep historical and religious roots. Today, it is beloved for its vibrant village-like atmosphere and strong local character. The street is lined with independent boutiques, artisan food shops, cafés, bakeries, and specialty grocers, making it a paradise for food lovers. It’s especially popular on weekends, when Parisians stroll and shop in a relaxed, community-driven environment. Though bustling, it retains a charming, authentic feel and beautifully captures the essence of everyday Parisian life, blending history, gastronomy, and neighborhood spirit.

Answer: rue des Martyrs

2. A hint of Hellenism 

This is a historic neighborhood in Paris, located near Pigalle and Montmartre. It emerged in the early 19th century as a hub for artists, intellectuals, and members of the bourgeoisie, characterized by elegant neoclassical architecture. The area earned its name due to its association with classical ideals and the vibrant artistic life it nurtured. Renowned painters like Delacroix, Ingres, and Gustave Moreau lived and worked there, making it a cradle of Romanticism. Today, you can still find beautiful hôtels particuliers (private mansions), some of which house museums, like the Musée Gustave Moreau. Blending historical charm with cultural depth, the area offers a unique residential feel yet it remains close to the lively nightlife of South Pigalle (SoPi). 

Answer: La Nouvelle Athènes

3. A triangular square

You have surely noticed that few “squares” in Paris are square. That’s only a problem in English, since in French they are called “places”.  Here, then, is a charming, little-known place where I’ve always enjoyed making a stop.

Renamed in 1954 to honor a French novelist and journalist associated with literary figures like Gustave Flaubert and Guy de Maupassant, this particular square is adorned with a Wallace fountain, a traditional Parisian newsstand, benches, and several cafés/restaurants, contributing to its village-like charm. Notably, the building at number 4 is listed as a monument historique, reflecting the architectural heritage of Paris . Place Gustave-Toudouze also holds cinematic significance, as it was featured in François Truffaut's 1959 film The 400 Blows, where the protagonist's home is located . Today, the square (triangle?) remains a serene spot, offering a glimpse into the historical and cultural fabric of Paris.

Answer: Place Gustav Toudouze

4. A hidden fountain 

This one is a small, elegant “square-shaped” square, created in the mid-19th century during the reign of Louis-Philippe. It was part of a broader urban development project led by architect Joseph-Antoine Bouvard to transform the neighborhood into a refined residential area. The square was named in honor of the Duke of Trévise, Édouard Mortier, a Marshal of France under Napoleon Bonaparte. The square is known for its harmonious architecture, with matching façades of classical-style buildings featuring wrought-iron balconies and sculpted stone details. The central garden adds charm and greenery to the space, making it a quiet refuge away from the city's hustle. Though less known to tourists, it has long been appreciated by locals for its peaceful atmosphere and historical charm. 

Answer : Cité Trévise

5. Holy be the Trinity 

Designed by architect Théodore Ballu during the major urban transformation led by Baron Haussmann, the edifice combines elements of Renaissance and Baroque styles, with a richly ornamented façade and a striking 65-meter-high bell tower. The church was intended to serve the growing population of the newly developed district and to be a visual landmark at the end of Rue de Châteaudun. Inside, it features grand proportions, intricate decorations, and an impressive Cavaillé-Coll organ, once played by composer Olivier Messiaen. Over time, Sainte-Trinité has become both a place of worship and a cultural site, hosting concerts and community events. Its architectural beauty and historical role make it a notable example of Second Empire religious architecture in Paris.

Answer: Eglise de la Sainte-Trinité

6. Long live La Fayette

Dead giveaway. It's an iconic Parisian department store, founded in 1893 and located on the corner of Boulevard Haussmann and rue La Fayette (named after the Marquis de Lafayette, the French aristocrat and military officer who fought in the American Revolution and became a symbol of liberty).

Originally a small haberdashery, it quickly expanded to become a symbol of luxury retail and French elegance. Its magnificent Art Nouveau architecture, particularly the glass dome and ornate balconies, has made it a tourist attraction in its own right. Historically, it represented the rise of consumer culture in the Belle Époque, catering to the growing middle class with a wide range of fashionable goods. It remains a major shopping destination, featuring high-end fashion, beauty products, gourmet food, and international brands. It also serves as a cultural space, hosting fashion shows, art exhibits, and culinary events.

Answer: Galleries Lafayette

7. Folies, folies everywhere 

Originally a cabaret-style theater opened in 1869, it gained fame as a Parisian music hall in the early 20th century for its lavish revues, glamorous costumes, and iconic performers. One of its most famous stars was Josephine Baker, who captivated audiences in the 1920s with her groundbreaking performances. The venue became a symbol of Parisian nightlife and artistic daring, blending entertainment with avant-garde style. It continues to host a variety of shows, preserving its historic charm while embracing modern performance art.

Answer : Les Folies Bergère

8. Looking down on Napoleon

A renowned wax museum on Boulevard Montmartre, it features over 200 lifelike wax figures, representing historical icons, celebrities, and cultural legends. Founded in 1882, it offers an immersive journey through French and global history. The museum also showcases interactive exhibits and theatrical displays for visitors of all ages. Some of the prominent historical figures include: Napoleon Bonaparte, Marie Antoinette, Louis XIV, Joan of Arc, Victor Hugo, Voltaire Georges Clemenceau, Alexandre Dumas, Louis Pasteur

Answer: Musée Grévin

9. A romantic life they lived!

Nestled in the Nouvelle Athènes district, this museum occupies the former residence of Dutch-born painter Ary Scheffer, built in 1830. During the 19th century, Scheffer's home became a vibrant salon, hosting luminaries like George Sand, Frédéric Chopin, Eugène Delacroix, and Charles Dickens. The museum's ground floor is no dedicated to George Sand, showcasing her personal artifacts, including portraits, furniture, and jewelry. The upper floor features works by Scheffer and other Romantic-era artists, reflecting the artistic fervor of the time. Surrounded by a charming courtyard and lush garden, the museum offers a serene escape from the bustling city.

Answer : Musée de la Vie Romantique

Let's not forget food and drink. Here are a few of my favorite places (from most to least expensive):

BB Blanche - chic, magnificent decor, with a courtyard terrace

Les Canaillles - scrupulous bistronomic French cuisine in the New Athens neighborhood

Le Petit Cadet - commendable restaurant design on an interesting pedestrian street

Bouillon Chartier - a Parisian institution

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See more photos of the 9th in this album.

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