Vitré, the Gateway to Brittany

Or a "Gothic getaway" on the road to Mont Saint-Michel

I'm tickled by the coincidence of writing this piece on the very same day in April when I first set foot in Vitré four years ago. Stepping out of its postcard train station on that crisp, sunny morning, I was enchanted on the spot, eager to visit a fairy-tale château that had already captured the hearts of my clients who hope to make it their own, upon my recommendation. My mission was to report not only on the château but also the town of Vitré. I can hardly believe that at the time, even after twenty years of living and traveling in France, I had never even heard of Vitré. Now, as you will soon understand, the town has captured a place in my heart.

Located in the Ille-et-Vilaine department of Brittany, Vitré is renowned for its rich medieval heritage and well-preserved architecture. Often referred to as the "Gateway to Brittany," it played a pivotal role in the defense of the Duchy of Brittany during the Middle Ages, serving as a strategic stronghold on the border with Anjou and Normandy.

Those battles long behind us, you may rather discover Vitré as a notable stop along "La Régalante," a scenic cycling route inaugurated in 2024 that connects Nantes to Mont-Saint-Michel.

The town's centerpiece is the Château de Vitré, a formidable fortress constructed around 1050 and expanded in the 13th and 15th centuries. This castle, with its distinctive triangular layout and imposing towers, now houses a museum that showcases artifacts from Vitré's storied past, including a 15th-century retable and various religious relics.

Vitré's historic center is a labyrinth of cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Streets like Rue de la Baudrairie and Rue de la Poterie reflect the town's artisanal history, with names derived from the trades that once thrived there, such as leatherworking and pottery.

"Vitré is perhaps the French town that has best preserved its medieval character. It still has its old wooden porches with barely hewn columns adorned with roughly sketched sculptures, its slate houses with street-facing gables, its narrow and oddly pierced windows..." - Gérard de Nerval (19th-century poet and writer)

In the 16th century, Vitré experienced economic prosperity through the "Confrérie des Marchands d'Outre-Mer," a merchant guild that traded locally produced hemp across Europe. This affluence led to the construction of grand Renaissance-style mansions, many of which still stand today, bearing ornate decorations that testify to the town's historical wealth.

For visitors, Vitré offers a blend of historical exploration and cultural experiences. The town's designation as a "City of Art and History" underscores its commitment to preserving and promoting its rich heritage. Additionally, the nearby Château des Rochers-Sévigné, once the residence of the famed Marquise de Sévigné, offers a glimpse of the region's aristocratic past.

Last but far from least, I am delighted to announce the opening of the Mosaic Restaurant by Chef Chantel Dartnall at the Château des Tesnières on May 1st, 2025. I was honored to assist my clients in their purchase of this château in 2021. They have since entirely renovated the establishment to become a world-class restaurant and boutique hotel. One of the guest suites has been entirely furnished and decorated in a late-Gothic style in honor of Queen Anne of Brittany.

Even though the Château des Tesnières has become for me THE main attraction of Vitré, take advantage of your visit in town to pop into the specialty store "La Fermerie". Have yourself an authentic galette au sarasin at one of the local crêperies. Stroll the cobbled streets as if you were inside a book, remembering those bygone times before the printing press, when architecture served the purpose of literature; its patterns and symbols conveyed meaning to the people of its age. It is a language we have since lost.

Visit Vitré with the eyes of Victor Hugo:

"It was a beautiful scene, the one that unfolded in every direction before your eyes; a sui generis spectacle, easily imaginable for those of our readers who have had the good fortune to see a Gothic city—entire, complete, and homogeneous—or even smaller examples, provided they are well preserved, such as Vitré in Brittany, or Norhausen in Prussia." - (1831) Notre-Dame de Paris, Livre III Chapitre 2

Click below to watch the Vitré slideshow.